A Day in Bordeaux

A gem of an idea came to fruition on Wednesday 21st February 2018 as I boarded the train from Toulouse to Bordeaux. Departing at 09:00 hrs, the journey would take about 2 hours. Coffee and a baguette for breakfast from the trolley service as we rolled along. As the sun broke through the clouds the countryside changed to reveal the famous chateaus and vines of the area. The huge diesel electric engine would eventually haul the train on up country to Paris.

Alighting from the train at Gare de Bordeaux Saint-Jean I proceeded to the information office where the friendly staff provided me with a transport map and a one day travel pass. It would appear that these are common to most large cities in France. I was later given a tourist map at another location which gave more details of the attractions in the city and was probably more useful for a short visit. Emerging from the station, a pause for a photo of the grand edifice then the city centre beckoned via the tram. I had already decided to head towards the river and work my way from there.

The tram stop at Porte de Bourgogne seemed to be a suitable place to start. The view of this magnificent gate into the city on one side and the Pont de pierre across La Garonne river promised an interesting day. In order to take some photos down river, the estuary broadens out ahead with the Borse and the wharves highlight the foundations of this rich city built on trade with worlds across the seas. One of the reasons for coming, I have now travelled all the way across Europe from the Black Sea to the Atlantic coat by train. Technically there is about another 50 km to go but the tidal estuary and port of Bordeaux will suffice. The air is cold and crisp as I admire the views, steeples highlight the skyline and a ferris wheel can be seen in the distance. At this time of year the cruise and ferry boats lie quietly at their moorings and the gardens have yet to bloom.

I continue my walk across the bridge and find myself in Stalingrad, the district named to commemorate the heroic stand of the the Russian people during WWII. A giant blue lion dominates, though I couldn't find out why it was there. I hopped back onto a tram, this line would run through the city centre in  north/south direction crossing the line near my previous stop. I decided to hop off at the next stop and explore on foot. Bordeaux is a fascinating city of rich architecture surrounding narrow streets. You can shop till you drop here if so inclined. My visit coincided with the Chinese New Year celebrations so one of the main thoroughfares was bedecked with lanterns giving a rather surreal atmosphere at the time.

My photo album gives a walking tour of the parts of the city I visited. I had a rough idea of heading towards the cathedral but I was continually distracted by the narrow winding side streets eventually finding myself entering "Sweeney Todd's" public house. Was this a tourist trap? No the pies and the atmosphere are excellent especially if you are a rugby fan. I enjoyed the freshly baked fish pie and a pint? of ale while defrosting. I was told that I was quite fortunate as it was the first dry day for about two months. Suitably fortified I ventured forth to explore some more wandering along the Cours d'Alsace-et-Lorraine.

I arrived at the Cathédrale Saint-André de Bordeaux. Wandering around past the 15th C Gothic bell tower, Tour pey Berland, the plaza opens out in front of the cathedral to the left with the imposing City Hall facing me. Looking around the plaza before entering the cathedral the fine houses highlight the prosperity garnered by trade and, like Liverpool, slavery. The tram route actually has a stop here which would have saved me a walk but, then I would have missed the delights of the city. A small statue of Madonna and child on the corner of a building, would this have been the home of the clergy? Now restaurant/cafes predominate.

I enter the cathedral through the Door of Arrows pausing to examine the fine craftsmanship of the stonemason. The Romanesque construction was started in the 11th C but would not be completed until the late 15th C.  Now only a small part of the original construction remains in the nave. Indeed the bell tower did not have a peel of bells until 1851.  What a magnificent building this is housing one of the finest pipe organs in France, the solidly carved pulpit, the astronomical clock, stained glass windows telling stories whilst shedding light into the building and the several side chapels, each unique in sculpture and design. Colourful columns lead the eye to the ceilings above. As royal weddings are in vogue this year it was in this church in 1137 that the 15-year-old Eleanor of Aquitaine married the future Louis VII, a few months before she became Queen. I highly recommend a visit.

Leaving the cathedral I was intrigued bronze relief of the Cathedral plaza before heading towards the Hotel de Ville. Unfortunately it was too late in the day to obtain a ticket to enter the Palais Rohan, though, looking back, the guard may have thought that I wanted to enter the town hall part of the structure. Alternatively you may have to go round to the other side. Either way it is a magnificent 18th C palace of Baroque architecture. The city art gallery is also housed somewhere in the complex though I didn't have time to visit as I wanted to see more of the city so, following my nose, I set off down another street which led me to another city gate at the Place de la Victoire. With its strange pink obelisk and bronze tortoises an interesting find. On June 17, 2005, two works by the Czech sculptor Ivan Theimer were inaugurated, a 16 meter high helical obelisk, more than 50 tons, made up of six blocks of red Languedoc and bronze marble , and two bronze turtles of which the shell is adorned with bunches of grapes and wine appellations. Apparently the previous attraction during the French Revolution had been the guillotine!

Walking through the Aquitaine Gate I set off down the Rue Sainte-Catherine as I knew that this would lead me back towards my starting point as I wished to visit another famous area the 'Borse' and the famous fountain 'Miroit d'Eau. Not a fountain in the traditional sense, this is the worlds largest reflecting pool. Made up of granite blocks it covers 3,450 square metres. During the summer months 2cm of water reflect the sky and a spray of fog is created every 15 minutes. Children dodge the random fountains as they erupt from below. Alas it is winter and the pool is drained but nor wasted as it formed an excellent skateboard and roller skating rink.  I took the opportunity to photograph the panorama from this point, the gardens must look magnificent in summer.

By now I was thoroughly frozen as I headed up towards the tram stop where I had first alighted. This time to return to the railway station. In need of a rest break I called in at the Customs museum on the corner of the Borse. Mu befuddled brain was associating this with the various museums I had visited in the past exhibiting national costumes and crafts. Once I had entered and my brain defrosted I had to by a ticket. This was the museum of the Douanes, the French Customs and Excise. Dear to my heart from my service in a past era of my life. This is a fascinating collection taking visitors through the history of the Customs Officer right up to the present day.

There is an audio guide and a handbook in English to explain the exhibits and the history. The perilous life of a Customs man (the oldest public service in France), the attempt to cut costs with privatisation which only lead to corruption, the north-south divide, which I have mentioned in previous posts, was also true in the collection of duties and taxes until unity prevailed. There are scale models, exhibits of weights and measures, seals and ledgers. The economic history of France. Uniforms and weaponry, the modern day fight against counterfeiting and endangered species all mimic our own experiences in the UK. As always on my trips I managed to find something I was not looking for but of immense interest all the same.

Time was running out and the museum was closing in any case. Exiting I rounded the corner past the facade of the 'Bond', continuing in the direction of the tram stop. I marvelled at the narrow, seemingly random streets and wondered if this was accidental or of deliberate intent. It would have provided natural defences in days of yore it there was any attempt to overrun the port and thence the city. I walked past and Electronics shop which seemed to have an eclectic collection of second hand SLR cameras and other must haves of the past. I also discovered the "Porte Cailhau" another of the gates into the city but of different design. Now thoroughly cold and tired I was glad to board the tram and head back to the station. I know it was the middle of winter but I am pleased that I made the journey. Bordeaux has so much to offer and I only saw a fraction but what I did see was amazing. The photos are contained in my Bordeaux Photo Album which I hope that you will enjoy.