A surprise email from my brother and his wife inviting me for Christmas resulted in an unexpected return to Spain. Searching for the best way to get there I discovered that air travel from Toulouse during the winter months was not the best option, it would appear that the French prefer to visit during the summer months. I was also interested in finding the rail route over the mountains. The train from Toulouse to Les Cabannes continues on to Latour-de-Carol where, I am told, a Spanish train bound for Barcelona departs from another set of tracks. Incidentally during the summer the narrow gauge "Yellow Train" runs through the mountains from this station too. Despite many searches I could not find a connection. In the spring a trip to the end of the line to investigate will be necessary. Meanwhile my route, all booked using the apps, Trainline.eu and OUI.sncf, will take me to Toulouse, across to Narbonne, down to Barcelona and finally to Valencia. My brother will take me too and from the station by car. The return journey differs in that I will change at Perpignan instead of Narbonne. It is advisable to pre-purchase as some stations do not have booking offices and reservations are also required on some routes. There are also considerable fare savings to be had.
Disaster, the day before I am due to travel a rail strike is announced in southern France. My train will not run. Delving into the timetable there is a train at 08:19 some ten minutes before. But it is not a train, it is a bus! 08:10 hours on Thursday 20th December finds me at the car park in front of the Les Cabannes halt. Incidentally the proposed 15 days of strikes are, amongst other things, in protest at the proposed closure of such 'halts' as this - a disaster for the village. We do not know if the bus will pull in to the car park or stop at the end of the street. My brother-in-law, Chris, spots a coach passing but it does not stop. We jump back into the car and chase the coach to Tarascon, the next stop on the route. Some nifty driving on Chris's part enables us to overtake on the only suitable stretch of road and we arrive at the station car park with the coach close on our heals. Transferring my case we discover that the coach will take us to Auterive train station not Toulouse. We are scheduled to arrive at 10:07 after calling at all designated train stations on the route. The 'silver lining', I get to see the villages behind the railway stations. At 10:17 we board a crowded TER 1440 arriving in Toulouse at 10:49. No time to take a photograph at Auterive. The later arrival also meant no breakfast at Toulouse before boarding the TER 876255 bound for Narbonne from platform 5. Observing the departure board I discover that this train terminates in Perpignan which mirrors my return journey.
Rail staff are at a minimum both on the station and the train. I haven't shown a ticket yet which is most unusual. We are due to arrive in Narbonne at 12:48. Is it the length of journey or the minimum of staff but there is no food available on the train. Just after 13:00 hours we arrive. Down the steps along the tunnel and up the steps again to platform A which appears to bare the destination boards. My train, the TGV 9713 to Barcelona, is due to depart at 14:36. I am travelling 1st class from now on and a meal is promised later in the day. I make my way to the station bar for a coffee and a sandwich, by now not breakfast but a late brunch! I keep an eye on the destination board as I need as much time as possible to transfer platforms.
Unlike Spain, France is remarkably devoid of lifts on individual platforms. I am fortunate, my train will depart from platform A and the indicator board tells me exactly where to wait in order to board my designated carriage. The station is remarkably quiet both in passengers and trains. I thought it amusing as a freight shunter operated by "FRET" drifted past, how many waiting passengers where fretting as to whether their train would run? Incidentally, travelling 1st class is not much more expensive when booked in advance and gives a much more comfortable seat, newspapers and a trolley service when available. The UK isn't the only country of delays, my designated carriage arrives in front of me - 15 minutes late. We board and settle in. My next stop Barcelona.
Needless to say we arrived late in the region of 17:00 hours. My next train, the Euromed 1181 to Valencia is scheduled to depart at 18:00 hours and I am promised an evening meal at my seat according to the ticket. Arriving at Barcelona - Sants Train Station it feels as though you have entered the underground. Platforms are all in the basement as it were. I decide to find my way to the next platform as the Departure boards indicate that security check in takes place 20 minutes prior to departure and I have no idea where my platform is. I ascend to the main concourse, negotiate the maze of barriers and find myself joining the queue zig-zaging towards the check in. Eventually I arrive at the desk only to be informed that these passengers are departing on the preceding train to mine and I am directed towards a seating area. As I manoeuvre my case towards said area another official points me in the direction of a lift and we descend to a platform crowded with passengers, Christmas is coming, there is much hugging and kissing as friends and loved ones depart to spend the festive season with families far away. The train remains at the platform, the passengers are now all aboard and the platform has cleared.
I sit alone, nervously checking the digital display on the carriage in front of me for any change. My train is due to arrive but this one has not moved. Suddenly at 18:00 the engine comes to life; the train moves off and I am alone. A few minutes later a member of staff questions me, it would appear that I have jumped the queue as my train will also be 30 minutes late. All aboard and we depart much later than expected. By now it is dark outside but the 1st class carriage is comfortable and the stewardess distributes newspapers and drinks. Later we are offered more liquid refreshments, I choose a bottle of wine, and fresh salmon rolls. It transpires that a hot evening meal is served between Valencia and Alecante, journeys end.
 |
(I cannot find the photograph
of Joaquin Sorolla) |
Valencia Joaquin Sorolla is a double track terminal built next to the main Estación del Norte to accommodate the high speed rail link. It is a little off putting on descending from the carriage as there is the impression of arriving in a remote goods yard. Lots of concrete and little else. The engine stops at the buffers and must reverse out to complete it's journey. Passengers walk towards the front of the train then back down the opposite side of the platform to find the door into the main station concourse. This is much more inviting and my brother was there to meet me. I should have arrived at 21:16 and it was now approaching 22:00 hours. Fortunately the car park is in close proximity and we were soon trying to find our way out of the city in the direction of Gandia and my brother's new home. Journey's end sometime after 23:00, a long day.
On the 3rd January I would make the return journey. My first train, the Euromed 1282 will depart from Valencia Joaquin Sorolla at 08:00 so we have decided to be on the road by 06:30 hours as we do not know what traffic will be like entering Valencia. The journey is not without interest as various landmarks are lit up along the way. Arriving in good time we say goodbye before I pass through the security control to enter the platform. We need not have worried, true to form the train is 15 minutes late. Who cares, I settle in with a coffee but decline the selection of Spanish newspapers. A short while later the breakfast menu is distributed. Staff are friendly and helpful, did I mention that meals and drinks are included in the ticket price here in 1st class. I am sure that it would be interesting to travel a complete route on one of these trains.
Breakfast is served and cleared away, another coffee or drink anyone? In daylight the route is very scenic with the Mediterranean almost next to the track at some points. Stopping at Tarragona the harbour is clearly visible from the platforms. We are due in Barcelona at 11:41 though it is nearer twelve when I alight and make my way to the concourse once again. This time I can wander around and look outside as it is mid-day. There is a lovely gift shop on the concourse where they wrap the gifts too.
My TGV 9740 to Perpignan will depart at 13:20 arriving at 14:43. Again it is late and I find that my reserved seat is upstairs, a little awkward as you step up into the carriage then down three steps into the well then up a flight of about ten steps. It would be easier without accompanying luggage. This level affords a pleasant view across the countryside though I am soon engaged in conversation with the French family sitting with me. It transpires that this train runs all the way to Paris which is their destination. Soon I am invited to share their lunch of bread, cheese and ham. Foresight on their part and a welcome treat for me.
Another late arrival prevented me from exploring the vicinity of the station before boarding the 15:21 TER 76258 to Toulouse. At least there are no strikes but passenger traffic is heavier returning from holidays no doubt. As access to platforms is via stair or escalator the platforms soon become very crowded. Following the norm we depart late but have a non-eventful journey supposedly arriving at 17:45. Little opportunity for photographs as dusk descends during this leg of the journey. I manage to use the cargo lift with the assistance of a friendly face to transfer between platforms at Toulouse Matabiau station. The train to Les Cabannes regularly uses platform one which is next to the concourse affording the opportunity to purchase a coffee and a baguette before departure at 18:53. I eat my snack aboard the TER 71479 as I was surprised to find that the cafe was closing at the time of my visit. During the journey a quick text to Chris to inform him that I would be, you've guest already, ten to fifteen minutes late. I should arrive in Les Cabannes at 20:34 but I am not complaining, it is much more comfortable than the bus.
Breakfast is served and cleared away, another coffee or drink anyone? In daylight the route is very scenic with the Mediterranean almost next to the track at some points. Stopping at Tarragona the harbour is clearly visible from the platforms. We are due in Barcelona at 11:41 though it is nearer twelve when I alight and make my way to the concourse once again. This time I can wander around and look outside as it is mid-day. There is a lovely gift shop on the concourse where they wrap the gifts too.
My TGV 9740 to Perpignan will depart at 13:20 arriving at 14:43. Again it is late and I find that my reserved seat is upstairs, a little awkward as you step up into the carriage then down three steps into the well then up a flight of about ten steps. It would be easier without accompanying luggage. This level affords a pleasant view across the countryside though I am soon engaged in conversation with the French family sitting with me. It transpires that this train runs all the way to Paris which is their destination. Soon I am invited to share their lunch of bread, cheese and ham. Foresight on their part and a welcome treat for me.
Comments
Post a Comment